This is another board game organizer I made and uploaded to thingiverse. This time it is for the game Dungeons & Dragons: The Fantasy Adventure Board Game (BGG Link). My children really enjoy this game, so we sleeved the cards and I made some organizers so simplify setup and cleanup of the game.
Since it seems this game was mainly distributed in Europe in various languages, I also uploaded the SCAD files so you can translate the card names into other languages (the German version is uploaded as STL files).
The card boxes include space for the cards from the 2 expansions (forest and ice).
The box for all the heroes makes it easy to keep track of which character had which items between campaigns.
This isn’t intended as an insert for the original box. Since I have both expansions, I use a bigger box to hold all the pieces.
In my last post, I mentioned the Pimoroni Tiny 2040. While it probably won’t die by just dangling off it the end of a USB cable, or tossing the naked device it in your bag/pocket, I prefer to have a small case around it to have some protection and make handling easier.
This also has the benefit of looking more professional when using it at work, compared to the “uh, are you sure this is a good idea” look I get when plugging PCBs directly into USB ports.
The design itself is pretty basic:
as small as possible
a top and bottom half that snap together securely when assembled
a slight recession on the bottom to accommodate the parts on the underside of the PCB
holes for the two buttons
a thin layer above the LED so it is protected, but still can be seen/used
One reason I like using this case, is that I can print a few in different colors and switch them out based on the payload (e.g. red for dangerous, green/blue/yellow for safe, testing, informational).
Last year I bought a Pimoroni Tiny 2040 that I really enjoy playing around with. It’s a fun little device that runs Python. It’s about the size of a thumbnail, has an LED, and you can use the boot select button for user input.
I mainly use it as a cheap USB rubber ducky with a non-malicious script at work (if plugged into a PC, it registers as a keyboard and starts typing: open notepad, write some text about the importance of locking your PC, and then locks the PC). To do this, install CircuitPython, and follow the instructions of this repository: pico-ducky
Once installed, you can easily write your own rubber ducky scripts and drop them on the device or use existing scripts found here: hak5/usbrubberducky-payloads
I have a small git repository that I use as a template to start off with, it includes all the required libraries and a slimmed down and modified rubber ducky parser: ryanschulze/rubber-pico-duck
The LED on the pico 2040 will glow dim blue when it has completed initialization and is ready, if you press the boot select button, the LED will turn red and it will execute the payload, when complete it will flash green briefly before returning to the ready state (dim blue).
I noticed an uptick in interest for the Creality 6-SE 3D printer lately (either because the price is dropped a bit end of last year, or because people are buying second hand). Since I’ve had mine since it was initially released on kickstarter, I thought I’d add some useful insights and links for people getting started with one.
First off: it’s capable of making really consistent quality and precise prints for an FDM printer. That being said, the initial design and QA felt a bit rushed, and even if the newer models being produced now have fixed all the initial issues, there are still a few small things you should definitely do to upgrade the printer. For all the things I mention here, there are plenty of videos and more detailed information out there, google them if you are unsure or want more details.
The official firmware is a bit lacking in features and doesn’t make full use of the Marlin firmware it is based off. There is a community maintained firmware version that is far superior and add a lot of functionality and fixes: https://github.com/CR6Community/Marlin/releases
The firmware updates both the main motherboard and the firmware for the display.
Bigtreetech has a drop in replacement motherboard that also fixes a lot of the issues with the initial Creality motherboard. I’m using this motherboard and have been more than happy with it.
If your hotend daughterboard breaks, it can be hard to find a replacement. What is sometimes easier to find is a complete hotend assembly (e.g. on aliexpress, it has the whole hotend assembly, strain gauge, daughterboard, hotend with heater and thermistor, fans and backplate).
Don’t tie the ribbon cable to the hotend (black) and the bowden tube (white, filament moves through it) together. The hotend is connected to the strain gauge (which is used for the automatic bed leveling and triggers at around 160g of pressure if calibrated correctly). Pulling/pushing on the bowden tube can influence the sensitivity of the automatic bed leveling. This also means that if you make any modifications to the hotend assembly (especially to fans, cover or duct), you might have to recalibrate the strain gauge (there is a small potentiometer on the daughterboard on the hotend, it’s super finicky to adjust, I suggest using a kitchen scale and the LED should light up blue at around 160g).
Before you print anything else, print this filimant guide thing:4677617 it snaps in place between the extruder and the runout sensor and makes it infinitely simpler to feed filament into the system. Trust me, it’s a quick print and will make handling filament so much easier.
If you want a quieter printer, replace the motherboard and power fans. I use Noctua versions of the fans (will need a step down from 24V to 12V for the motherboard fan), but any quiet fan will do. You will want to print an alternate cover for the psu that has space for the larger fan: thing:4665448. Since the fans extend farther down than the original design, you should also add/print risers to the feet of the printer to lift everything a few centimeters.
If you plan on updating firmware more regularly, you might want to extend the sdcard externally (so you don’t have to take apart the display to get to the display board each time). Just get a simple/cheap extender off amazon, you can either bring the cable outside at the bottom of the board, or through the ventilation slots on the back.
The standard glas printing surface is OK. I’ve also had good experience using the Creality PEI magnetic bed (has a rougher surface) and a magnetic WhamBam surface for a smoother finish.
One thing I like to use my 3D printer for is improving board games. Especially when it comes to all the tokens and figures and whatnot, we like to use foam core and 3D printed elements to keep things better organized. This is an insert I made for the kid’s version of Andor (it’s marketed under a few different names depending on the language, here in Germany it’s called “Andor Junior”, Board Game Geek lists it as “Andor: The Family Fantasy Game”).
The insert is the same height as the box (so you can also stand the box upright without everything falling out), and holds all the small tokens and dice.